Pedal Journeys in the Balkans

We pedaled 48 km with a 970-meter uphill climb until we reached the coast of Montenegro. Along the way, we stopped at Sveti Stefani to eat and admire the beach, which is beautiful and perfect for swimming. The water temperature is pleasant, the coast has shallow areas, and there are several restaurants in the area. After our stop, we continued to Budva. In the evening, we walked around the Old Town, where we had dinner, and then strolled to the nearby Mogren Beach, a small bay that feels like a large pool, ideal for a sunset swim.

After yesterday's long journey, we decided to have a relaxing day and swim in the lake. The family at Vržina Farm House offers boat tours, so we chose a 5-hour route and set off to explore the lake by boat. We spent the afternoon surrounded by floating lilies, mountains, small fishing villages, and jumping from the boat into the lake for a swim. A perfect afternoon to recharge our energy!

This was the longest distance we've covered in a day: 152 km with 1232 meters of uphill climbing, taking us 7 hours. We left Eko Oaza at 7 a.m. to start our journey. We began with a light drizzle that occasionally intensified but never turned into a heavy rain. The route consisted mainly of two prolonged ascents followed by equally long descents, with the rest of the trip being mostly flat, especially just before reaching the capital and continuing to the lake. Along the way, we noticed several cars passing very close to us, with two of them accelerating in our lane to overtake other cars. It's important to be cautious on the roads as there isn't much regard for cyclists. Before arriving at our accommodation, we stopped for a snack at Konoba Starcevo , a restaurant with a lovely terrace overlooking the lake. The cold appetizers were top-notch, and the Balkan-style tres leches cake was a marvel! We continued our journey to our destination: Vrzina Farm Stay . On our way up

We spent the night in simple accommodation next to Tara Bridge (30 euros with breakfast included). However, if you have the chance, we recommend continuing 22.5km and staying at Eko Oaza, the only place with cabins that have access to the Tara River with a small private beach. We started the day by jumping off the longest zip line in Montenegro for 40 euros. During the descent, you can appreciate the river and the Tara Bridge. It's worth it! Then we pedaled and stopped at several places along the river to jump in the cold water until arriving at Eko Oaza. At the camping place, you can go down 500 meters and reach the private beach. The water is about 8 degrees, turquoise, and surrounded by vegetation, mountains, and lots of butterflies. After the swim, we found out some road works were underway and we couldn’t continue until 6 p.m. when they would open the road again for two hours, so we decided to spend the night at Eko Oaza to jump in the river again the next morning.

Short bike ride day. We started the day swimming at Black Lake, relaxing our muscles and enjoying the National Park. After a huge breakfast in town, we rode 22.6 km to Tara Bridge. The road was mainly downhill. We stayed in a wood cabin by the river (30 euros breaky included) and did some computer work, looking forward to jumping into the zip line tomorrow morning. Good night, world!

Our day started just as we like it: without hesitation, straight into a 14% uphill climb (haha). We bid farewell to the turquoise waters of Piva Lake to ascend one of the most panoramic roads I've ever seen in my life (P14). We climbed for three and a half hours through the canyon, passing through stone tunnels that provided spectacular landscapes. Continuing through Sedlo Pass, we encountered meadows filled with flowers, rocky mountains, cliffs, and caught a distant glimpse of the turquoise glow of the Piva River. We found lakes that appear in the middle of nowhere during the rainy season. It's truly an unforgettable experience that requires great determination to push forward when the climb demands considerable effort. Once the toughest part of the climb was over, we stumbled upon a small cafe bar in the mountains where we could enjoy a good bottle of water accompanied by coffee and local cheese, a true feast! After hydrating ourselves, we continued our ascent until we reac

Today, we arrived in Montenegro after a scenic 3-hour, 48-km ride with a 798-meter ascent. The route was breathtaking, as we pedaled alongside a river framed by majestic canyons. The road was quiet, adding to the serene beauty of the journey. Reaching the border, the uphill climb became more challenging due to strong winds. However, the Montenegrin landscape made it all worthwhile. The contrast of tunnels, canyons, natural rock formations, and the turquoise river below was truly mesmerizing—one of the most stunning parts of our trip so far. We found accommodation right by the lake, thanks to a listing on Booking.com at 35 euros. Initially, we had hoped to stay at Bungalows Konak, but they were fully booked. However, our alternative turned out to be great. Our room came with a washing machine, which was perfect for getting our clothes cleaned after just arriving in Montenegro. Finally we went for lunch-dinner at Restoran Sočica and closed the night with a jump into Piva Lake.

Next day we visited the City Hall. On Sundays, the Franz Ferdinand Museum is closed, so we couldn't visit it, but we explored the history of Sarajevo through the explanations at City Hall. You can follow the narrative of how Bosnia was conquered by the Ottoman Empire, how it became part of Yugoslavia, the impact of WWI (which began after the assassination of Franz Ferdinand on the famous bridge of Sarajevo), their fight for independence, and the collapse of Yugoslavia. It's definitely worth the visit! After enjoying Sarajevo we were ready for our next destination: Brod. We covered 78 km and climbed 870 vertical meters to reach Brod. The ascent was steady, followed by a long, exhilarating descent. However, be cautious—there are several tunnels after the descent, and two of them can be particularly daunting without a head torch and back light. Make sure to have them ready! However, if you have the chance, go a bit further before the border where you'll find bungalows along

After our hosts gave us a ride to Sarajevo and Jon´s tire was repaires we headed to our home for the night: Isa Begov Hamam i Hotel . Isa Beg Hamam is Sarajevo's oldest bath, it boasts over 500 years of history and was once a Waqf (Islamic charitable endowment) building donated by the founder of Sarajevo, Isa-beg Ishaković. If you are in town, don't miss the opportunity to take a Turkish massage at the hammam. After our relaxing time at the baths, we went for a walk across the city. We loved exploring the little streets and enjoyed a fantastic meal at Dvari restaurant.

After having breakfast at our guesthouse, we went for a walk through the charming hilly town before hitting the road again. We rode about 10 km when Jon’s tire split. He changed the inner tube, but the puncture was so deep that it went through the entire tire. From that moment on, Jon had to push his bike. We hoped to hitchhike to Sarajevo to find a bike repair shop, but traffic in the hills was sparse, and the passing cars didn’t have enough space to help us. We continued walking until we arrived in Brda, where we found Edelweiss Mountain Lodge . To our great surprise, we discovered an amazing spot run by fantastic hosts. The place is spectacular, with a stunning morning view from the terrace. The lodge is managed by a couple of experienced mountain climbers who treated us to a spectacular dinner and shared great conversations, offering invaluable tips about Bosnia, routes, and biking. Later on, we found out that they are part of the Transdinarica hubs and are pioneers in adve

After our time at Glamping Bagrem, we set off for Lukomir, the highest village in Bosnia. This journey is not for the faint-hearted—the road is incredibly steep, with a 12% incline on a dirt path that seemed to stretch on forever. We ended up pushing our bikes for about five hours, covering two-thirds of the distance on foot. Despite the grueling effort and the intense heat, we were fortunate to find water sources along the way. The rugged beauty and expansive views of the breathtaking landscapes made every challenging step worth it. We took the most challenging route and had to push our bikes most of the time due to the dirt road and steep incline, which made it really hard to ride our road bikes. After 45km, we finally arrived in Lukomir at 10:30 pm, guided only by the faint glow of our lights and accompanied by the distant barking of shepherd dogs. The sunset views during our journey were out of this world, painting the sky with breathtaking hues. We were lucky to find our magical

We bid farewell to Mostar and set our sights on Blagaj, just 10 km away. A wrong turn led us up an unexpected climb, but aside from that detour, the road was straightforward. Arriving famished, we settled for an early lunch at the first riverside restaurant we found. The trout was decent, but in hindsight, we recommend pushing on a few meters further to dine at one of the charming restaurants facing the monastery. After visiting the Monastery, we continued our journey towards Glamping Bagrem. Although the road was quite busy, the scenery became breathtaking as we approached the lake area where canyons and the river converge. We pedaled 74 km in about 4 hours, with a 505-meter ascent. Glamping Bagrem is truly a hidden gem. We wished we could stay an extra day, but it was fully booked. With only 8 tents, it's definitely wise to reserve in advance. The glamping site has a wonderful restaurant, and their specialty, slow-cooked lamb, is absolutely delicious—a must-try! When we arr

We woke up in Mostar and decided to take a rest day. We stayed in the Old Town, which is the most charming part of Mostar. Everything is within walking distance, and we got to see the famous Mostar Bridge. This 16th-century Ottoman bridge was rebuilt after being destroyed in the 1990s conflict.Mostar's Old Town was developed in the 15th and 16th centuries as an Ottoman frontier town.The city is known for its old Turkish houses and the Old Bridge, Stari Most, which gave Mostar its name. Although much of the historic town and the Old Bridge were destroyed in the 1990s, they have been rebuilt.Walking around the Old Town, you can see a mix of restored buildings and original structures that tell a story of history and resilience. It's a wonderful place to take a break and soak in the atmosphere. We kicked off the day with breakfast at Urban Taste of Orient . They served an amazing Oriental breakfast platter with a variety of Bosnian and Turkish dishes, all of fantastic quality. The

Today marked our longest ride yet, but I have to admit, it was probably the least scenic. The road was bustling with traffic, cars zooming by uncomfortably close. We encountered some rain along the way, prompting a timely coffee break at a roadside café when the downpour hit its peak. Despite the challenges, we pushed forward, braving the gusty winds that seemed determined to slow us down. But reaching Mostar made it all worth it. Just when we thought we were in the clear, Jon had some technical issues with the gears but luckily we were near enough to Mostar to find a bike repair shop. Ah, the joys of adventure! We stumbled upon a gem of a room at Shangri La, where our host welcomed us with warmth and helpfulness. After a rejuvenating shower, we set out for dinner. Following recommendations from Culture Trip , we landed at Babilon, where a charming waiter guided us through a selection of local dishes. While the food was decent, it didn't quite reach exceptional heights. Neverthel

After the charming local experience, we continued our journey toward our next destination. We pedaled 74 km, passing vibrant poppy fields, remnants of war-torn houses, and stunning green areas along narrow roads until we arrived in Grabovica. The contrast with our previous destination was striking—no Bosnian coffee here, just cappuccinos and a more Westernized lifestyle and cuisine. We already missed our routine in the little towns, but it was great to find a good internet signal and a comfortable place to rest. When we arrived, it started to rain, so we headed to the restaurant of Eco Selo Grabovica for some dinner before going to rest for our next day.

We left Martin Brod after a nice breakfast and traversed through Una National Park towards our next destination. The first part of the trip was uphill, but then it leveled out. The landscapes were stunning, and we passed through several small towns, each with just a dozen houses. Along the way, we saw many remnants of bombarded houses from the war—stone structures now without roofs. The contrast between the exuberant nature, with its green mountains and stunning sunsets, and the old, war-torn houses was striking. The beauty of the surroundings was captivating, but it felt a bit eerie knowing that not so long ago, this was a battlefield. Besides the houses, there were no people outside along the road. We pedaled over 90 km, and as night began to fall, we started looking for places to stay. However, nothing showed up on Google Maps, Airbnb, or Booking.com. We kept pedaling, hoping for good luck. Literally out of the blue, like an angel, appeared a bar by the road between Grkovci and Crn