Day 10: From Martin Brod to Nuglasica

We left Martin Brod after a nice breakfast and traversed through Una National Park towards our next destination. The first part of the trip was uphill, but then it leveled out. The landscapes were stunning, and we passed through several small towns, each with just a dozen houses. Along the way, we saw many remnants of bombarded houses from the war—stone structures now without roofs. The contrast between the exuberant nature, with its green mountains and stunning sunsets, and the old, war-torn houses was striking. The beauty of the surroundings was captivating, but it felt a bit eerie knowing that not so long ago, this was a battlefield.
Besides the houses, there were no people outside along the road. We pedaled over 90 km, and as night began to fall, we started looking for places to stay. However, nothing showed up on Google Maps, Airbnb, or Booking.com. We kept pedaling, hoping for good luck. Literally out of the blue, like an angel, appeared a bar by the road between Grkovci and Crni Lug called "Hacienda." It was the only place around and the only one with people. We stopped for a drink, and the locals were very curious about us. Though none of them spoke English, I tried using Google Translate to ask about accommodations but wasn’t very successful. However, with some gestures and goodwill, we managed to understand each other. The guys drinking at the bar called a lady who rented out rooms, arranged the deal, and even guided us there (3 km from where we were). The night was fantastic—she welcomed us with some rakia and a cold platter of cheese, charcuterie, and delicious ajvar (Balkan pepper spread). We couldn't have asked for more. What a lovely day!

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